![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:22 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
So the only thing they could adjust was the toe, and they did not seem to know anything about aftermarket cam bolts.
This kit is given as Camber/Caster adjustment. C ould you achieve caster adjustment by offsetting the cams?
Driveability: the car gets swoony back and forth at 80 mph and even at times at slower speeds. I suspect the caster contributes to this.
What I cannot tell is which way the caster is out; is it tipped forward or backward?
Anyone with any experience in this area?
Thanks.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:43 |
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Needs to be tipped more backwards . LB J forward, U BJ rearward depending on where your adjustability is
![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:46 |
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You’re gonna want to find a better alignment shop. I’m fairly certain Ford actually offers eccentric bolts to make these adjustments as well. Eccentric bolts can be used in knuckle mounts to adjust camber in some applications, and in control arm bolts to adjust caster/camber .
The wheel is forward of the steering axis with positive camber, similar to a bicycle or motorcycle front wheel on it’s fork. Negative camber is a wheel trailing it’s steering axis, similar to a shop creeper or a desk chair.
Too much positive camber will make the steering almost want to lock into an direction once steering change is input. That camber deviation (.4 degrees side to side) will make things a bit squirrely, too. Take this with a grain of salt, I’m more paint and body, but I end up dealing with suspension damage via collision repair fairly often. Tire pressure/treadwear/road crown can also have an impact on steering/alignment feel, and I’ve always thought the Vickie/Marquis/TownCars always felt a bit uncomfortably floaty above 45 or so.
Years ago, an instructor referred to Sears/NTB type shops as “set the toe and let it go” shops. It looks like that’s what you got, unfortunately.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:47 |
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I have a similar readout from Chevy of Everett. Generally, Caster and Camber are both items that cannot be adjusted readily on the Panther platform. I’m going to say the caster has to be 5 degrees rearward.
I’ll ask my roommate when he gets home — he works at the dealership’s service shop and has experience with alignments (he’s a suspension guy). Be a few hours, though.
P.S. The In/Out caster measurements are not identical on both sides on that readout. Your alignment guy is incompetent.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:50 |
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Leaned in and pushed forward. Think of caster as wheelbase length. If bad and fixed it would always be shorter on one side. In and forward is f requently seen on lifted trucks or vehicles with brand new quick strut assemblies.
Most folks can’t feel anything up to .5 degree split. Given camber AND caster are both off the heads may not have been perfectly centered. Adjustment bolts (aka crash bolts) are great for really bad numbers but given yours are pretty equal I wouldn’t jump at replacing suspension bolts with thinner units. T hough if the bolts are same diameter but have larger eccentric cams that may not be so bad aside from some minor premature bushing fatigue on surrounding components.
Wobbly At speed may be the antiquated chassis. Slight changes in 60+ series sidewalls tire pressures, worn sway bar bushings or shocks would be what I'd be investigating first.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 20:50 |
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That feeling could be due to your caster. 5 is sort of low and castor plays a big roll in high speed stability.
They should definitely know how to adjust it using the stock cams. It’s pretty bad that they only knew how to adjust toe. You should go somewhere else.
As I understand castor on a car, the wheel is angled forward when positive. The load is ahead of the wheel and so it’s pulling the wheel forward and keeping it straight. It appears to be the opposite of a shopping cart, but it’s actually the same effect as a car.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 21:04 |
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Can you actually adjust the camber and caster on those cars? They’re actually not adjustable on some cars, including most Toyotas. If it’s out of spec, something is worn or damaged and needs to be replaced.
I know the panthers got revised suspension starting in 2003, but I don’t know much about them otherwise
![]() 05/08/2020 at 21:10 |
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I think you have to buy aftermarket adjustment kits with eccentric washers and bolts.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 21:28 |
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Check your REAR control arm bushings, and the Watts link. Both of those get worn and make sloppy handling.
![]() 05/08/2020 at 21:58 |
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Had my rear control arms checked, seemed fine. I should’ve had them check the watts link bushings too. lol.
Ultimately though, I do want to replace the control arms and watts link with upgraded solid aluminum...